Cairo’s Secret Hedonistic Societies
Oct 5th, 2009 | By Kate Laird | Category: Featured Blogumnist, Kate LairdMuch of what is said and done here in Cairo is by young, bright-eyed expats, looking to join the fray or better the world. They acculturate; they learn the language, the make Egyptian friends. They go to “baladi†(local) coffee shops and have brainy conversations.
These optimistic youngsters, however, are not the movers and shakers of Cairo.
Within one mile of each other there are 3 “foreign only†private member clubs, with varying levels of difficulty to join.
It is in these places where one can witness the foreign power brokers of Egypt act like college fraternity boys. Oil company managers, presidents of major distribution companies, university professors, military consultants from the US—all set on getting hammered and getting laid.
One has to ask themselves as they walk in the door—especially as a young, reasonably attractive female—“What am I getting myself into?†Upon entry on any weekend night, I will, on average get about 25 drink offers from middle-aged, MARRIED men.
What is it about Cairo that drives us long-term residents to such extremes?
I would speculate that there is a deep divide between the types of residents of Cairo. It is my postulation that the youngsters are enamored and in love with (as it was recently put to me) the “authenticity†of grimy, gritty Cairo. Getting down and dirty in the cafes of Cairo with your language buddies or Egyptian friends is precisely how I spent my first two years here.
And I loved every minute of it. And then I moved to Maadi, or as I like to refer to it as, “Egypt Lite.†Even the Egyptians here want nothing to do with Egyptians, lending itself to a very narrow and reductionist view of a rich, diverse and often delightfully weird culture.
The second classification is the “embed tourist.†That is, the language or study abroad student that spends all their time at Khan el Khalili or the pyramids, grossly mispronouncing their newly learned colloquial vocabulary with a “fusha,†or modern standard Arabic, accent. Again, not worth the time.
So, after two years of the “begad, enti masreyya†(really, you are Egyptian) lifestyle, I find myself getting wasted with mercenaries and millionaires.
And again, I find myself loving every minute of it.
Recently, I had a conversation with a middle-aged couple and upon finding out that drinking actually dramatically INCREASED during Ramadan, I asked them what their drinking habits had become during this period. They told me that the first thing on their mind after enduring the rigors of dealing with Egyptians resulted in them running to the pub the minute their cards were punched at work.
What then, is the difference? Is it age, comfort and preservation of expat identities and traditions? Or is it the fact that often the youngsters choose to come abroad and the “grown-ups†are shipped off to Egypt as part of their existing job?
I would guess that the issue is not as simple as that. I know many couples and singles that actively try to stay here in Egypt and create a life for themselves here. Even when finding themselves without work, they will stay unemployed until they can find work here in Egypt because it has become their home.
My final speculation on the debauchery of these semi-secret societies of Cairo is this: these people, have, over their time here come to discover they prefer the company of their own cultural ilk, yet love the ease of life here in Cairo.
They do not live in the insanity of Egyptian life many (primarily) younger people do; they are sequestered, but they are happy.
As for the hedonistic drinking and sexual practice—this humble lady asks, how many “B†movie reruns can one watch on MBC before it gets boring?
BM
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I totally get you, Kaitlin. I have been a resident and grad student here for a few years, and these places, while escapist, are fun sometimes. I am on a British pool league, of all stupid things, and it is a blast.
Oh well.
In the almost ten years that I have been living here in Cairo my friends, my hobbies and interests and even my jobs have changed many times. As a result, the places that I socialize and seek entertainment from adjust as well. Life is an ebb and flow regardless of where you are living.
However, one of the elements of life-as-an-expat that I truly appreciate is (what seems to me anyways) a greater opportunity to avoid being boxed into one character type and one lifestyle path. I can enjoy participating in wide ranges of activities with incredibly different groups of people all within the same community. Pool leagues and archeology excavations rarely go hand-in-hand. Not too many places in the world where a person can enjoy both.
agree with you. yes, i think it might be because the maadi foreigners are rich and usually have been transferred here by an oil company, and so want nothing much to do with egypt aside from raping the economy. been to one of these “foreigner only” clubs, where i felt positively immersed in my own melanin. was probably like going to el gezira in colonial times. to be honest, have stopped being friends with any new foreigners, partly because watching them go through these predictable phases is tiring. not that i didn’t go through it myself – spent a fair amount of time kicking it downtown being authentic.
I am sorry to have to resort to a personal attack but where did you get your MA and what are they teaching you at the AUC? I could not for the life of me follow the point of this blog other than to indulge in seeing one’s own thoughts be publicized in a semi-official manner. I clicked the link hoping to get the inside scoop on these ‘secret societies’ and the supposed debauchery as I have not experienced them myself and never hope to, but instead I found what reads like the fragmented journal entry of an aspiring high school student and I am flabbergasted and very disappointed indeed. I realize the internet is a place of free speech with many and varied authors and talents, and this website chose to showcase you and some people appreciate you, like the ones above. But for the sake of your own journalistic integrity, development as a writer & thinker, and adding value and interest to your readers’ lives, could you maybe refine your thoughts and language before ad-libbing such a colorful & judgmental tone, that instead of sounding informed-ly editorial, just comes off sounding ignant? Again, I apologize for being so harsh, but seriously, I could write better than this and am wondering where an MA in International Relations gets you these days. And if I’m wrong and you’re just taking a break from being all wise & knowing, please don’t, there’s enough garbage out there for the great brain drain – prove me wrong! Thanks.
A blogumnist is a cross between blogger and columnist. We, at Bikya Masr, are open to all views, even if we agree with them or not. Jane, this comment is bordering on deletion, so please refrain from overt attacks on the writer themselves. Let’s focus on content. The writing here is a great example of bringing in some personal experiences as well as blogging style. It is a new idea and we believe it will help bridge the gap between blogging and columnists in an open forum. Thank you for your comments, everyone.
hi Kaitlyn, thanks for this
i must say that my first response is that this experience pretty much mirrors my experiences in the man’s world. i mean, not in the same context (cairo ‘secret’ societies) but generally. i have lived and traveled in many places of the globe for more than a decade, and mostly alone as a woman. that was throughout my late teens and twenties. and whether the men are young or old, married or not, rich or not so rich — and whether i have been single or not — as a young woman alone i have found myself regularly propositioned (not really in the sense of being harassed). like prey. if a man has a chance, he will try to get me into bed. i have thought about and analyzed this for many years: the open promiscuity of men, woman ‘as prey’ and the structural forces that promote it. but that i guess is for another discussion…!